Spices in Pakistani cooking

Gobi in most of its forms. Cauliflower is bland and structurally open, so it absorbs a bloomed spice mixture better than a dense vegetable does, and cumin is the base note of nearly every version.

Add alongside: Turmeric, Coriander seed, Chilli powder

Masala chai is built on it. Tea tannins are astringent and cassia is warm and faintly sweet, so the two balance without either being lost — and cassia holds up to being boiled with milk, which more delicate spices do not.

Add alongside: Ginger, Green cardamom, Cloves

The other half of chai, and the one that makes it taste of something rather than merely of warmth. Fresh ginger simmered with the leaves gives a sharpness that survives milk and sugar.

How: Fresh ginger bruised and simmered with the tea before milk is added

Add alongside: Green cardamom, Cassia, Black pepper

The masala omelette base. Turmeric bloomed in the pan before the egg goes in adds an earthy depth and deepens the yellow; stirred into raw egg it stays bitter and chalky, which is the commonest way this goes wrong.

Add alongside: Cumin, Chilli powder, Coriander leaf

• Bloom it first. Raw turmeric in a two-minute egg dish tastes raw.

Saag in its many forms. Spinach is mineral and slightly bitter, and cumin bloomed in fat gives it a base to sit on — without it, spiced spinach tastes green and thin.

Add alongside: Garlic, Turmeric, Chilli powder

A marinade base across South Asia: yoghurt tenderises and carries, turmeric colours and adds an earthy depth, and the acidity keeps the turmeric from tasting raw the way it would in a dry rub.

Add alongside: Ginger, Garlic, Chilli powder

The tandoori marinade, and the pairing shows what Kashmiri chilli is for. Carotenoids are fat-soluble, so the colour transfers into the dairy fat and stains the whole marinade red — a hotter chilli could not be used at the quantity that colour needs.

How: Whisked into yoghurt with ginger and garlic, meat marinated for hours

Add alongside: Ginger, Garlic, Cumin

Rogan josh, whose deep red is the dish's signature and comes from this chilli rather than from tomato or long cooking. Lamb is strongly flavoured enough that a mild chilli used generously reads as colour and warmth rather than as heat.

Add alongside: Fennel seed, Ginger, Green cardamom

Biryani and pulao take their colour partly from this, and the mechanism is the same as everywhere else Kashmiri chilli appears: bloomed in ghee, the pigment carries through the fat and stains the grains without adding heat a rice dish could not carry.

Add alongside: Green cardamom, Bay leaf, Cumin

The Indian answer to seasoned popcorn, and a good one: chaat masala is a finishing blend built to be sprinkled on dry fried things, which is precisely what popcorn is. The sourness does what butter and salt alone cannot.

How: Sprinkled over hot buttered popcorn; With a squeeze of lime

Add alongside: Lemon, Salt, Cayenne pepper

The pairing black cardamom exists for in South Asian cooking. Lamb and goat are strong enough to take a smoky camphorous spice that would obliterate a delicate meat, and the long braise these dishes get is exactly what the pod needs to give up its aromatics.

How: Bruised into hot fat at the start of a korma; Whole in the pot for a lamb biryani

Add alongside: Cassia, Cloves, Bay leaf

• One or two pods is enough for a large dish; the husk is left in and fished out rather than eaten.

Biryani and pulao, where the pod perfumes the whole pot from a single addition. Rice is a blank absorbent base and picks up smoke readily, which is why the spice is so noticeable here despite the small quantity.

How: Whole in the water or stock for a pulao; In the fat with bay and cassia before the rice goes in

Add alongside: Cassia, Bay leaf, Cumin

Dal makhani and the heavier North Indian lentil dishes, where a long slow cook and a good deal of butter or cream give the smoke both time and fat to travel through. In a quick dal it would be wasted.

How: Bruised into the tempering for a slow-cooked dal; Whole in the pot with the pulses

Add alongside: Cumin, Cassia, Garlic

The pairing asafoetida exists for in practice. It goes into the tempering that starts or finishes nearly every dal, contributing a savoury allium depth to a dish that often contains no onion or garlic at all, and the tradition attaches a digestive reason to the combination that SpiceHQ records as tradition rather than as a claim.

How: A pinch into hot oil at the start of a tadka; With mustard seed and cumin in a finishing tempering

Add alongside: Mustard seed, Cumin, Turmeric

• It goes into the fat near the end of the tempering — it needs the least time of anything in the pan and burns to acridity in seconds.

The same logic as lentils and the same traditional reasoning. Chickpeas are dense and mild and take a savoury background well, and in Jain and satvik cooking asafoetida is what supplies the depth that fried onion would have.

How: In the tempering for chana; In a dry chickpea sabzi

Add alongside: Cumin, Amchoor, Coriander seed

Potato is bland and absorbent and shows a savoury background clearly. In allium-free cooking a potato sabzi bloomed with asafoetida tastes as though it contains onion, which is the whole point of the ingredient.

How: In the oil before a dry potato sabzi; With nigella and turmeric in a Bengali-style dish

Add alongside: Nigella, Turmeric, Cumin

Aloo dishes and potato-stuffed parathas both run on it. Potato is bland and starchy and shows a sharp herbal note clearly, and ajwain’s slight bitterness cuts the heaviness of fried or roasted potato in a way a sweeter spice cannot.

How: Bloomed in oil for a dry aloo sabzi; In the filling for aloo paratha

Add alongside: Cumin, Asafoetida, Turmeric

• A quarter teaspoon is enough for a large dish; ajwain turns acrid well before most spices do.

Chickpeas and other pulses are the traditional home of ajwain, and the reasoning attached to the pairing is digestive — the same reasoning that puts asafoetida in the same pot. Its herbal bitterness also gives a dense starchy dish somewhere to go.

How: In the tempering for a chana dish; With asafoetida in a dry chickpea sabzi

Add alongside: Asafoetida, Amchoor, Cumin

Ajwain is a standard component of the batter and marinade for Amritsari fish, where its thyme-like sharpness works against oily fried batter much as lemon would and survives the frying that would destroy a leafy herb.

How: In a gram-flour batter for fried fish; In a marinade with ginger and chilli

Add alongside: Amchoor, Turmeric, Chilli powder

Chana without a souring agent tastes flat, and amchoor is the one North Indian cooking reaches for when the dish must stay dry. It sours a chana masala without thinning the sauce, which lemon juice cannot do.

How: Stirred in near the end of a chana masala; In a dry chole with chaat masala

Add alongside: Cumin, Coriander seed, Asafoetida

• Add it late — prolonged cooking dulls the acidity it was added for.

Dry potato dishes are where a dry souring agent earns its place. A spiced aloo wants sourness and would be ruined by the water in lemon juice, so amchoor does the job without softening the potato or thinning the coating.

How: Dusted into a dry aloo sabzi at the end; In a samosa filling

Add alongside: Cumin, Chilli powder, Ajwain

Recorded for fruit generally rather than apple specifically. Sprinkling a sour spiced powder over cut fruit is a standard Indian street preparation, and amchoor is one of the agents used — it sharpens sweet fruit without wetting it.

How: Dusted over cut fruit with chilli and salt; In a fruit chaat

Add alongside: Salt, Chilli powder, Cumin

Biryani and pulao are where shahi jeera earns its name. Rice is a blank absorbent base that shows a delicate aromatic clearly, and black cumin was chosen over ordinary cumin in Mughlai cooking precisely because it perfumes without asserting itself the way cumin would.

How: Bloomed in ghee before the rice goes in; Whole in the pot for a biryani

Add alongside: Cassia, Green cardamom, Bay leaf

• A quarter teaspoon does the work of a teaspoon of ordinary cumin, and the slender seed scorches faster.

Kashmiri and Mughlai lamb dishes — rogan josh, korma and the wazwan repertoire — use it where ordinary cumin would be too coarse against a rich yoghurt-based sauce. Its smokiness sits with lamb fat rather than cutting across it.

How: Bloomed in fat at the start of a korma; In a Kashmiri lamb braise

Add alongside: Black cardamom, Cassia, Cloves

Yoghurt-based marinades and sauces are the Mughlai context black cumin belongs to, and the pairing works because yoghurt is mild and slightly sour and carries a delicate smoky aromatic without competing with it.

How: In a yoghurt marinade for meat; Stirred into a raita or a korma base

Add alongside: Green cardamom, Coriander seed, Ginger

Raita is the documented case and the combination is more specific than it looks: yoghurt is sour and cooling and has very little savoury depth of its own, and black salt supplies both salt and a sulphurous savouriness that reads as depth without needing anything cooked. It is one of the few ways to make a cold, uncooked preparation taste as though it has been seasoned properly.

How: Stirred into raita with cumin and coriander leaf; In salted lassi and spiced buttermilk

Add alongside: Cumin, Coriander leaf

• Add it at the end and taste as you go — black salt is more assertive than its saltiness alone suggests, and a raita can tip from seasoned to eggy in a pinch.

The basis of aloo chaat and most street-food potato in North India. Boiled potato is bland, starchy and absorbent, which makes it the ideal carrier for a seasoning that is doing several things at once — black salt brings salt, sulphur and a slight tang, and the potato takes all three without contributing anything that argues with them.

How: Tossed through boiled or fried potato with chaat masala and lime; In aloo chaat with tamarind and yoghurt

Add alongside: Amchoor, Cumin, Tamarind

Salted spiced fruit is a standing South Asian preparation and black salt is what it is made with. Fruit is sweet and acidic and has no savoury component at all, so a seasoning that supplies salt, sulphur and tang creates a contrast that plain salt cannot — the sulphur reads as savoury depth against the sweetness rather than simply as saltiness.

How: Sprinkled with chilli powder over sliced fruit; In fruit chaat with lime and chaat masala

Add alongside: Chilli powder, Amchoor, Lemon

• Applied to fruit that will stand, the salt draws water out and the pieces soften. Season immediately before serving.

The defining use, and the reason the spice is reached for rather than a lemon. Chana masala and the dry chole of the Punjab want sourness through the dish and no extra liquid in it — chickpeas already sit in as much sauce as they can carry, and juice added at the end thins it. Ground anardana acidifies from inside the masala instead, and its raisin-like depth suits the earthiness of the pulse in a way a bright citric acid does not.

How: Ground into the masala for chole or chana masala; In a dry chickpea preparation finished without sauce

Add alongside: Cumin, Ajwain, Black salt

• Grind it first. Whole grains stay chewy and the hard inner seed is gritty.

Potato is bland and absorbent and takes sourness well, and the northern Indian dishes that pair them — aloo preparations, and the spiced potato filling in a paratha or samosa — are exactly the dry ones where a wet acid would be a problem. A filling that will be wrapped in dough has to hold together, so the acid must arrive as a powder.

How: In spiced potato fillings for paratha and samosa; In dry aloo dishes finished with the ground spice

Add alongside: Cumin, Coriander seed, Black salt

Used in kebab and mince mixtures across the Punjab and into Afghanistan, where the same dryness argument applies with more force: minced lamb has to bind, and liquid acid prevents it. The fruity sourness also cuts the fat of a fatty mince, which is the job a chutney would otherwise do at the table.

How: In seekh kebab and mince mixtures; With dry-cooked lamb

Add alongside: Coriander seed, Cumin, Black pepper

• A little goes a long way in a mince, and it cannot be corrected once the mixture is formed.