Litsea berry
Also known as mujiangzi, mu jiang zi, maqaw, may chang, pheasant pepper, Litsea cubeba
Quick answer
The small, peppercorn-like fruit of an East Asian laurel, and one of the most lemon-scented things in any spice cupboard. It seasons the sour fish soups of Guizhou and the mountain cooking of Yunnan and Taiwan, fresh, dried or as a pressed oil.
- Tastes of
- lemon, citrus, ginger, peppery, fresh
- Heat
- Scoville does not apply
- Goes with
- White fish, Chicken, Tomato
- If you have none
- Lemongrass — see the limits
Other names
What this spice is called elsewhere, and where the translation is not clean.
mùjiāngzǐ木姜子
Mandarin — Guizhou, Yunnan, Hunan, Sichuan
Also called shānhújiāo (山胡椒), "mountain pepper", a name Chinese botany also gives to a different laurel, Lindera glauca. In English "mountain pepper" more often means the Tasmanian pepperberry, an unrelated plant.
shāncāngzǐ山苍子
Mandarin
The name behind the trade name "may chang", used mostly for the distilled oil rather than the berry.
maqaw
Atayal — Taiwan
The Atayal name, now used generally in Taiwan for the berry and the dishes it seasons.
màng tang
Vietnamese
krangean
Javanese
Flavour and aroma
Lemon and ginger with a light peppery warmth and a slight bitterness.
Intensely lemony and fresh, with a sweet, fruity edge and none of the grassy note of lemongrass.
Green when fresh, black and wrinkled when dried — very like a peppercorn.
Firm small berries; the dried fruit is hard and is crushed before use.
Heat
Pungency scale: none — this spice is not pungent
A light peppery warmth rather than heat, and no numbing.
- Citral (geranial and neral) — Two-thirds to seven-eighths of the fruit oil across its Chinese range — among the highest citral contents of any plant, and the reason litsea smells of lemon more intensely than lemon does.(what citral is)
Pairings
Ranked by how well established the combination is, with the reason and the caveats attached.
Foods
White fish
ClassicGuizhou sour fish soup is the dish litsea is best known in: river fish poached in a sour, chilli-red broth, finished with crushed berries or a few drops of litsea oil whose lemon note lifts the fermented sourness.
How: In Guizhou sour fish soup
Add alongside: Tomato
Chicken
StrongIn Taiwan maqaw seasons chicken soup and roast chicken; the lemon-and-ginger aroma suits a plain broth that lets it through.
How: In chicken soup
Tomato
StrongThe red sour soups of Guizhou are built on fermented tomato and chilli, and litsea is the aromatic that finishes them.
If you have no litsea berry
What to use instead, and — more usefully — where each replacement stops working.
Lemongrass
AcceptableBoth smell of lemon for the same molecule, citral, so lemongrass keeps the aroma. It adds a grassy note litsea lacks and loses its peppery, gingery warmth; bruised stalk simmered and removed is the closest form.
| Flavour | Aroma | Colour | Heat |
|---|---|---|---|
| partial | close | different | n/a |
Works for
- Sour fish soups and broths made outside China
Does not work for
- Crushed-fresh chilli dips, where the berry’s texture and warmth matter
- Recipes calling for litsea oil, which is far more concentrated than either
Preparation and use
Crush the berries just before use and add them late, or finish a dish with a few drops of the oil. Use sparingly: the lemon aroma is strong enough to take over a dish.
A lemon-scented finishing spice for sour soups, fish, chicken and chilli dips in south-western China and Taiwan, used fresh, dried or as a seasoning oil. Elsewhere it is little known as a berry, although its distilled oil is a common lemon flavouring.
- grinding — Crushed or pounded fresh into chilli dips and pastes, where the lemon aroma is released at once.
- boiling — Added to sour soups and braises near the end; citral is volatile, and long boiling drives the aroma off.
Storage and freshness
| Form | Good for | Conditions | Fridge |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dried whole | Not established | Cool, dark, dry and sealed. | No |
| Fresh | Not established | Refrigerated, or frozen for longer keeping. | Yes |
Crush a berry: it should smell strongly of lemon at once.
- A dull, woody smell on crushing
- Loss and oxidation of citral, which flattens the lemon character
Quality is not the same as safety
Faded dried berries are a quality matter. Fresh berries are a fresh food and are discarded if mouldy.
Forms
These forms differ enough to need separate answers: treating them as interchangeable produces a dish that is wrong.
Fresh berries
Green fresh fruit, crushed into dips, pickles and soups where it grows.
Dried berries
Black dried fruit, crushed or ground before use.
Commonly confused with litsea berry
Direct comparisons, each with the difference that actually changes what you cook.
Botany
Lauraceae
The laurel family, with cinnamon, cassia and bay. Not a pepper, and not a relative of the Zanthoxylum peppers it is cooked beside.
The small round fruit, fresh or dried. The leaves and flowers are aromatic too; in northern Vietnam the flowers flavour tea.
A small deciduous tree or shrub with separate male and female trees, growing in hill country from the eastern Himalayas through southern China and mainland South-East Asia to Java and Taiwan. The fruits are small, round and peppercorn-sized, green ripening to black.
Commonly confused with
A peppercorn-sized fruit of similar look, and in Indonesia litsea is used as a substitute for it. Cubeb is a Piper, resinous and peppery; litsea is a laurel, and its smell is lemon.
Also sold in English as "mountain pepper", and an unrelated plant: pepperberry is hot with polygodial, litsea is lemon-scented and barely pungent.
Cooked alongside it in south-western China and sometimes grouped with it as a mountain spice. Sichuan pepper numbs; litsea does not.
How it is grown
The plant, how it is propagated and farmed, what threatens the crop, and where it is produced now. Crop diseases here are plant health, not food safety.
The small round peppercorn-sized fruit, green ripening to black, of a small tree with separate male and female plants.
From planting to first harvest: 2–3 years
Clonal trees bear fruit two to three years after planting.
How it is propagated
- Seed.
From seed, which loses viability quickly, or from wildlings taken from wild stands.
Growing conditions
- Altitude · 700–2300 m
A tree of hilly country that grows well at 700–2300 m, though it occurs at 400–600 m in East Kalimantan; in Java it is found on fertile loams.
How it is farmed
- Plantation · China, Japan and Taiwan
Grown on a fairly large scale in China, Japan and Taiwan, mostly for its essential oil, though little is published about its husbandry.
- Smallholder farming · Java, Indonesia
A smallholder crop in Java.
Most spices are grown in more than one way; none of these is the only one.
Harvest
Harvested by hand.
Fruits are picked when their citral content is highest — just before they turn red and fully ripe — and are often dried at room temperature for one to two weeks, traditionally in bamboo containers.
Where it comes from and how it is made
Native from the eastern Himalayas through southern China, Taiwan and mainland South-East Asia to western Indonesia.
- China (The southern provinces, north to the Yangtze) — major producer. China is the main producer, largely for the distilled oil; the berry is a regional seasoning in the south-west.
- Taiwan — notable producer. Grown and gathered in the mountains as maqaw.
- Vietnam — native range
- Indonesia — native range
The fruit is picked when mature; in Taiwan flowering is from February to May and fruiting from September to October, while in Indonesia the tree flowers and fruits through the year.
- Picking — Mature fruits gathered by hand from the tree.
- Drying or pressing — Used fresh, dried whole, or processed for oil; the essential oil is steam-distilled from the fruit.
Grown for its essential oil mainly in China, Japan and Taiwan, and gathered from the wild across much of its range.
Hill country; in its range it grows well between about 700 and 2,300 metres.
Buying and quality
Whole, crushed at the moment of use. The aroma is citral, which is volatile, and a ground powder loses it quickly.
- A strong lemon smell when a berry is crushed.
- Sold by its Chinese name, mujiangzi, or as maqaw — not simply as "mountain pepper", which may mean another plant.
History and trade
Traded internationally mostly as may chang oil, a commercial source of citral for flavourings, perfumery and chemical synthesis; China is the largest producer of the oil. The berry itself is mainly a regional product.
Culture
Recorded by tradition rather than merged into one narrative — these are genuinely different practices.
Northern Thailand
In northern Thailand the fruit is used in place of black pepper in spicy bamboo-shoot soup.
- In bamboo-shoot soup
Also documented in northern Thailand: Cha phlu, Makwaen, Thua nao, Vietnamese coriander.
Guizhou and neighbouring south-western China
Crushed fresh berries or a few drops of litsea oil finish the sour fish soups and chilli dips of Guizhou and are used across Yunnan, Hunan and western Sichuan, where the lemon note sits against fermented sourness and chilli. It is a regional taste rather than a national one, and much of China does not use it.
- In Guizhou sour fish soup
- Crushed into chilli dips
- As a seasoning oil
Java
Java, Indonesia.
In Indonesia the fruits are eaten as a vegetable side dish and used in place of cubeb.
- As a side dish
- As a cubeb substitute
Also documented in Java: Kencur, Round cardamom.
Atayal and Taiwanese mountain cooking
Known by its Atayal name, maqaw, the berry seasons meat, fish and soups in the Taiwanese mountains and is now widely sold across Taiwan under that name. Recorded here as a public culinary use; SpiceHQ does not describe practices beyond that.
- In chicken soup
- With pork and fish
The fruit, leaves and bark have medicinal uses in several traditions of its range. Recorded as context only; SpiceHQ makes no health claim.
What it is called
- Mandarin: 木姜子 (mùjiāngzǐ)
- Mandarin: 山苍子 (shāncāngzǐ)
- Atayal: maqaw
What we do not know
Published openly. A gap we have named is more useful than a gap we have filled with plausible prose.
Not yet established for litsea berry:
- Archaeological evidence
- Historical timeline
- Ceremonial use
- Regulatory limits
- Traditional uses