Spices in Mediterranean cooking

Bouillabaisse, zarzuela and countless Mediterranean fish stews depend on it. White fish is delicate enough that saffron reads clearly, and saffron's slight bitterness balances the sweetness of the fish.

Add alongside: Tomato, Garlic, Orange

The long braise is where bay earns its place, and beef is what is usually in it — Greek stifado, French daube, British stew. Hours of gentle extraction is exactly the treatment bay wants, and it lifts the heavy savoury background without ever announcing itself.

How: One or two whole leaves added at the start of the braise and removed before serving

Add alongside: Black pepper, Onion, Cinnamon (Ceylon)

• Remove the leaves before serving. They stay stiff and sharp-edged however long the braise runs.

Greek fakes is close to a demonstration dish for bay: lentils, olive oil, onion, vinegar and bay, with almost nothing else to hide behind. Pulses cook long and taste flat without an aromatic, and bay is the one that adds length without adding a flavour of its own.

Add alongside: Onion, Garlic, Black pepper

A slowly reduced tomato sauce is acidic and one-dimensional on its own. Bay is the standard corrective across the northern Mediterranean, and it works because it contributes length rather than a competing flavour — which is also why it is so rarely credited.

Add alongside: Black pepper, Garlic, Oregano

Court-bouillon and Mediterranean fish stews are built on it. Fish cooks too fast to take a long infusion, so the bay goes into the liquid first and the fish goes in after — one of the few cases where the aromatic and the main ingredient are never cooked together.

How: Simmered in the poaching liquid before the fish is added

Add alongside: Black pepper, Lemon, Parsley

The two things in almost every stock in European cooking, and the pair a cook reaches for without thinking. Peppercorns give a slow warmth and bay a resinous length; neither is identifiable in the finished liquid and both are missed if left out.

Add alongside: Onion, Thyme

Used together in some Mediterranean baking and charcuterie, where they reinforce rather than complement — both are anethole spices, so the combination is a matter of degree rather than of contrast. Worth knowing before adding both to the same dish expecting complexity.

Add alongside: Black pepper, Coriander seed, Orange

• These are not a contrast pair. Using both mostly makes the dish more anise-flavoured, not more interesting.

A pairing that runs from Greek and Levantine pastry through to spiced honey for cheese. Honey is floral and one-dimensionally sweet; cassia gives it a warm edge and makes it read as less cloying without reducing the sugar.

Add alongside: Cloves, Orange, Green cardamom

Aglio e olio is two ingredients and this is both of them. The flakes go into warm oil with the garlic rather than hot oil after it, because both scorch at about the same point and burnt chilli is acrid in a dish with nothing to hide behind.

How: Warmed gently in oil with the garlic, never added to a hot pan

Add alongside: Parsley, Black pepper, Tomato

Brassicas are faintly sulphurous and slightly bitter, and chilli heat reads as a lift against that rather than as competition. Broccoli or cime di rapa with chilli and garlic is a southern Italian staple for exactly that reason.

Add alongside: Garlic, Lemon, Black pepper

A Mediterranean pairing that runs from Provençal fish stews to Turkish and Greek cooking, and it is the same logic as fennel with fish: anethole is clean and sweet enough to lift a delicate fillet without burying it. Aniseed is the more delicate of the two and needs a lighter hand.

Add alongside: Fennel seed, Lemon, Saffron

Orange and anise recur through Mediterranean baking, poached fruit and the anise spirits themselves. Orange is sharply aromatic and aniseed is sweet without sugar, so the pair reads as richer than either alone while adding nothing to the sugar content.

Add alongside: Cassia, Fennel seed, Honey

Aglio e olio, arrabbiata, cime di rapa — the chilli goes into warm oil with garlic before the pasta ever appears, because that is where it can disperse. Sprinkled over a finished plate it sits on top and tastes raw.

How: Warmed in oil with garlic, off a high heat, before the pasta goes in

Add alongside: Garlic, Parsley, Black pepper

The spice soup was made for. Bay wants long wet extraction and gives length rather than a flavour of its own, which is exactly what a broth needs and exactly why nobody can taste it when it is there.

How: Added whole at the start, removed before serving

Add alongside: Black pepper, Onion, Thyme

A quieter alternative to cinnamon with cooked apple, and a common one across Mediterranean baking. Aniseed reads as sweet without contributing sugar, so it lifts the fruit where cinnamon would warm it — a different correction to the same flatness.

Add alongside: Cassia, Fennel seed, Honey

Mediterranean charcuterie and roast pork both use it, for the same reason fennel does: pork fat is rich and slightly sweet, and an anethole spice cuts it without the sharpness a pepper would bring.

Add alongside: Fennel seed, Black pepper, Garlic

Toasted and cracked coriander gives tuna a citric lift without adding liquid, which matters for a fish usually cooked hot and fast. It suits the seared preparation particularly, where a wet marinade would prevent a crust forming.

How: Cracked with pepper into a crust; In a dry spice mix for grilled tuna

Add alongside: Black pepper, Fennel seed, Lemon

Courgette is close to flavourless and mostly water, so what it needs is not a strong spice but a sharpening one. Pepper does that without competing, and it is why so many courgette dishes are simply courgette, oil, salt and a great deal of pepper.

How: Cracked over griddled slices; In a courgette and cheese fritter

Add alongside: Salt, Mint, Cheese

A quiet vegetable takes an aromatic seed better than a forceful ground spice, and fennel gives courgette the sweetness it lacks without adding sugar. It is a southern Italian habit and it suits the griddled or fried preparations best.

How: Cracked into oil before the courgette goes in; With chilli in a courgette pasta

Add alongside: Chilli flakes, Garlic, Mint

Recorded for the wider category of plain starches rather than for pasta specifically. Za’atar herb is at its best on something bland with fat and salt, and a plain wheat base — bread above all, but noodles and grains too — is exactly that.

How: Stirred into olive oil and tossed through; With lemon and olive oil on a grain salad

Add alongside: Lemon, Sesame seed, Garlic

Tomato and za’atar is a standard Levantine salad combination, and it is a relative of the Italian tomato-and-oregano pairing rather than a coincidence — these are close species doing the same job. The Levantine herb is drier and less sweet, which suits a raw tomato better than a cooked one.

How: On a raw tomato and cucumber salad; With olive oil over grilled tomatoes

Add alongside: Onion, Lemon, Sumac

Both are sweet, acidic and red, and the spice deepens the tomato rather than contrasting with it. Muhammara and the Turkish red pepper pastes are built on this, and it is why Aleppo pepper suits a tomato sauce where a hotter flake would simply sit on top of it.

How: In muhammara with walnut and pomegranate; Warmed in oil at the start of a tomato sauce

Add alongside: Garlic, Cumin, Mint

Soft and goat cheeses are lactic, tangy and pale, and pink peppercorns supply sweetness, resin and colour against all three. The pairing is as much visual as culinary and is none the worse for it.

How: Crushed over a soft goat cheese with honey; Pressed onto a fresh cheese as a coating

Add alongside: Honey, Thyme, Lemon

The central pairing of southern Italian cooking, and one where the mechanism matters. Flakes are warmed in olive oil at the start so the fat-soluble capsaicin and carotenoids move into the oil, which then coats the pasta — aglio e olio is that idea with nothing else added. Chilli sprinkled on at the end does not distribute and does not taste the same.

How: Aglio, olio e peperoncino; Arrabbiata and puttanesca; Bloomed in the oil before anything else enters the pan

Add alongside: Garlic, Oregano, Fennel seed

• Warm oil, not hot. These flakes carry seed and sugars and scorch into bitterness quickly.